Climbing philosophy in Advanced Rockcraft Royal Robbins















robbins authored 2 seminal books, basic rockcraft , advanced rockcraft, emphasized free climbing skills , clean-climbing ethic. in section of advanced rockcraft called values, described climbing philosophy. believes first ascent creation in same sense painting or song , , choosing climbing line may act of brilliant creativity . creative aspect of first ascent involves aids leader of climb rejects. modern technology of aid climbing available, first ascent more artistic if consciously rejects use of climbing aids not essential success of climb. places emphasis on using equipment non-destructive mountain environment. opposes climbs done outside accepted mores of given climbing center, or prevailing style of area. favors calls upward variations , or completing climb using more stringent standards used on first ascent. in robbins view, decision place single piton matter of enormous importance because single word in poem, can affect entire composition .








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