Bouldering: chalk, controlled dynamics, gymnastic style John Gill (climber)

john gill, performing dynamic move @ pennyrile forest, ky in mid-1960s.

john gill began mountain , rock climbing in 1953 traditional climber. mid-1950s had begun specialize on short, acrobatic routes on outcrops , boulders, establishing problems in 1950s , 1960s considerably harder existing @ time. being gymnast , thinking of climbing extension of gymnastics, in mid-1950s introduced use of gymnastic chalk american rock climbing (the use of chalk spread throughout climbing world). @ same time introduced controlled dynamics (see dyno), recommending technique of choice, 1 of necessity.

gill s climbing style showed influence of formal gymnastics. emphasized form , grace of motion on simple efficiency, cornerstone of contemporary climbing. performances, recorded on film taken when forty (disciples of gill, 2009), demonstrate straight lines , minimal contact rock. preferred application of strength , avoided efficient moves heel hook, considered unaesthetic. gill s approach bouldering - artistic style being on par difficulty - followed climbers of generation , considered unusual today, difficulty remaining paramount. practised bouldering form of moving meditation.

although not first serious boulderer — notable predecessors include oscar eckenstein (1859–1921) , pierre allain (1904–2000) — gill first climber in history of rock climbing make bouldering primary specialty , advocate acceptance of bouldering legitimate sport in own right, pursued wherever terrain suitable. focus on bouldering , high difficulty levels established inspired number of traditional climbers take more serious view of sport, which, part had been seen merely training longer roped climbs.

. . . introduction of chalk , dynamic movement marked beginning of modern climbing in america.